This project was the building of a cowl induction hood. One of the reasons for this hood was that the car has on occasion been out running in the rain and the ram air hood does a good job of sucking in air but also tends to collect water.
 Hood without the cowl insert The hood I already had from some previous collision work so we decided for economic reasons to just add a scoop rather than get a whole fiberglass hood. We proceeded to strip through 4 paint jobs down to the bare metal. It revealed the prior damage and minor rust but that is normal with these hoods and easily dealt with.
 We cut away the inner structure from the hood leaving the hinge mounts and latch areas. The area under the scoop was cut out making this a true cowl induction hood. When we reinstalled it we removed the hinge springs to keep from flexing the hood during closing. A support bar and hinge was pirated from a salvage car to hold up the hood.
  The cowl induction scoop is an Unlimited Products SC-124 and was picked because it is one of a few that bolt on rather than bond on. It is 49 long / 26 wide / 3 tall. After an initial fitting the leading edge was cut to fit the reveal lines in the hood. It took a bit of test fitting and trimming but came out pretty good in the end.
 The completed hood assembly For the quick and dirty use we used a spray bomb get it out on the street for the 2005 Dream Cruise and Michigan State Fair. We can do a full spray job at a later date. The original hood will be safely stored so we can swap it back if the mood strikes.
I fabricated a simple swing down hood support. I got tired of the ole stick on the core support trick. A single hole in the front core support filled with an support OEM grommet served as the base and I trimmed an adaptable hood support rod to length. A rubber cap goes on the end. The only missing piece is a lip to hold it in place when it is down. See Prop-rod article
In my quest for an old school street look I got frustrated after looking at the all the local stores for some old school hairpin style hood pins and clips and plastic coated lanyards. They all had to be ordered in addition they were a bit pricey. The ones i liked were by Spectre part #42563 for the pin kit and Spectre part #4264 for 24″ coated lanyards. I found that I could get them online also. Not really surprising but still a bit pricey. What I found to my suprise was after going directly to the Spectre website these same parts were 1/2 the price and they offered free shipping on orders over $10.00! Yep! I said $10.00. When was the last time you saw that? So I went ahead and got 2 pin kits and 2 lanyard kits. All for the same price as one of each normally. And free shipping to boot.
The reason for two kits is that I am now using one pin for a trunk hold down. So now I will install the pins for the hood and finish up the pin for the trunk lid. All of them are a simple R&R. That is my project for the day.
In all of the traditional racing looks hood and trunk pins are a must. I have a set on my custom hybrid hood [ steel shell with a glass cowl lift ] so it just seemed fitting to add one to the trunk. While not a really big deal but I like consistency. So I set about adding it to the trunk lid.
The issue at hand was that I made a conscious decision to not drill any additional holes in the lid. I had seen one done with a single pin dead center near the rear lip. And in my case it would be directly under the wing. Cool but because of me decision to not drill the deck lid I started exploring some alternative bolt-on solution.
After some exploration while stripping out the trunk latch, catch and key lock assembly I decided that I could use the exiting catch mount points on the lid to anchor a simple plate that would allow a lock pin to be mounted vertically with the head pointed down. After a quick fab with some very light metal I fabbed up the first version. It had a bunch of bends and folds. Functional but not really a final solution. A bit of dimensioning and a second slightly different simpler piece with less folds was made. A simple set of shims eliminated the need for a couple of the folds. After test fitting the plate I needed to shorten the threading on the pin to clear the final fit. I also needed a much thinner jam nut. The thread cutting was no biggie. The thinner nut was a short grinding and finishing task. Then with all the pieces assembled it dropped into place.
The receiver was now the task at hand. My solution was this. In the furthering of my decision not to drill any additional holes, I fabbed a simple round disc with a flat tab associated with it that would for in the round recess hole left by the removal of the lock mech. Simply a sandwich of a large fender washer on the inside and new disc / tab on the outside. The pin drops into the hole in the tab and the pin slides through to secure the trunk.
It took a bit of fabbing and noodling but I did it!